PODCAR CITY: STOCKHOLM

September 6-8, 2011

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Stockholm, Capital Of Sweden

The city of Stockholm is made up of 14 islands connected by some 50 bridges on Lake Mälaren, which flows into the Baltic Sea and passes an archipelago with some 24,000 islands and islets. The city's a very lively, cosmopolitan place with both modern Scandinavian architecture including lots of brass and steel, along with fairytale towers, a captivating Old Town (Gamla Stan) and lots of green space. Over 30% of the city area is made up of waterways and another 30% is made up of parks and green spaces, giving Stockholm perhaps the freshest air and widest lungs of any European capital.

Stockholm is not the oldest town in Sweden, but after its establishment in the 1250s it rapidly became a national centre, with its strategic location between lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea. The city is in almost every respect the most important city in Sweden, even though more peripheral regions feel they survive quite well without the political centralism exerted by the capital.

The city contains buildings from all ages since the 15th century. Like the rest of Sweden it was untouched by the World Wars, but particularly between 1955 and 1975, hundreds of old buildings in Norrmalm were demolished in a large-scale modernization process, encouraged by similar projects in other European cities. Since then, little has changed in the architecture of central Stockholm.

Sweden's beautiful capital has a picturesque setting that makes the city unique. The difference between seasons is quite large, the summers green with mild nights, and the winters dark, cold, rainy, sometimes snowy, and with millions of Christmas candles in the windows.

Stockholm Waterfront  - Photo by Holger Ellgaard

Districts

Most attractions in Stockholm are found in what Stockholmers call "innerstaden", the inner city - historically the zone within the city tolls. The geography of Stockholm, with its islands and bodies of water, makes for a natural division of the inner city into three major zones. Simply put, the mainland north of Gamla Stan (consisting of Norrmalm, Vasastan and Östermalm) can be said to form one district, the small island Gamla Stan and the large Södermalm another, and the island of Kungsholmen a separate district in the west. This division reflects how most Stockholmers perceive the city, although it is in part different from the administrative borough divisions.

Outside the inner city, the city has a typically suburban character. The Municipality of Stockholm extends to the northwest and to the south. To the north the municipality borders the towns of Solna and Danderyd and to the east Nacka and the island of Lidingö; all of them traditionally separate entities.

The Northern Inner City

  • Norrmalm is the major commercial district, with plenty of shopping opportunities. The central railway station and the T-Centralen metro hub are located in Southern Norrmalm; known as City, it is regarded as the absolute center of Stockholm. The busy pedestrian shopping street Drottninggatan (a real tourist trap in summertime) runs in a north-south direction through the area, by the square Sergels Torg. For administrative purposes, Vasastan is a part of Norrmalm, but most Stockholmers regard it as a separate neighborhood. It is a rather large, mainly residential area which recently has attracted a younger crowd. The most central part, around the Odenplan square, offers some shopping and nightlife.
  • Östermalm is an affluent commercial and residential area. The part closest to the city center, around the Stureplan square, is the place for upmarket shopping as well as nightclubs and bars for the jet set and those who seek their company. To the north and east, the tree-lined boulevards of Narvavägen and Karlavägen, bordered by decorated stone houses, lead to the Karlaplan square. The area contains many of Stockholm's numerous museums. A protected green area, the Djurgården area of Östermalm makes up a large part of the National City Park. Södra Djurgården (Southern Djurgården) is an island, often referred to simply as Djurgården, with some of Stockholm's major tourist attractions - the Skansen open air museum, the Gröna Lund amusement park and Vasamuseet. Norra Djurgården (Northern Djurgården) has a large green, Gärdet, a small forest, and houses the campuses of Stockholm University and the Royal Institute of Technology.
Normalm - Photo by Albert Jankowski
Normalm, Hamngatan - Photo by Holger Ellgaard
Östermalm - Photo by Hedning

The Southern Inner City

  • Gamla Stan, The Old Town, is the historical centre. The northern part is dominated by the Royal Palace and the Riksdag - the Swedish parliament. The rest of the island is a picturesque collection of old buildings and narrow cobblestone streets. The adjacent island Riddarholmen holds an important church and several old administrative buildings. 
  • Södermalm, colloquially referred to as Söder, once a working-class district, was mostly gentrified during the late 20th century. The more or less bohemian area south of Folkungagatan has recently been nicknamed SoFo (with obvious inspiration from SoHo). The area has many restaurants and pubs, many of which are convivial and particularly lively when Stockholmers have their paydays. There is at lease one excellent fishmongers as well as other specialist shops and boutiques. Erstagatan, at the eastern edge of Södermalm, has excellent views of Stockholm at the northern end of the street. The hotel with the best views of Stockholm, Djurgarden and out toward the archipelago is the Ersta Hotell. Slussen ("The Lock"), the waterway lock between Södermalm and Gamla Stan, is a mass transit hub covered by road bridges. Today Slussen can appear a little rundown, and not as charming as when it was built in the 1930s but it is a lively crossping point in the city and has its charm. The major north-south street Götgatan, with many bars and shops, starts close to Slussen and passes Medborgarplatsen ("Citizens' square"), a major square surrounded by restaurants and pubs.
  • Kungsholmen is an island that makes up the western part of the inner city. On its eastern tip, the impressive redbrick Stockholm City Hall stands by the water. Further west, a collection of rather relaxed neighbourhood bars and restaurants can be found. West of the Fridhemsplan transport hub and the new Västermalmsgallerian shopping mall, the island becomes more suburban.  
  • Lilla Essingen and Stora Essingen are two smaller, mainly residential, islands that belong to the borough of Kungsholmen.
Gamla Stan - Photo by Jürgen Howaldt
Södermalm - Photo by Albert Jankowski
Kungsholmen - Photo by Dick Rochester

Suburbs And Bordering Towns

  • Västerort, the north-western suburbs, has both very wealthy and rather poor neighborhoods. Vällingby was constructed in the 1950s as one of the first planned suburbs in Europe. In Kista, a centre of information technology, the 128-metre Kista Science Tower, Sweden's tallest office building, was completed in 2002. Unfortunately, the upper floors are not open to the public.
  • Söderort or söder om Söder, the southern suburbs, are almost as diverse. The most central part, around Gullmarsplan, contains several arenas: Globen (The Globe Arena), clearly visible from most of Södermalm, host ice hockey games as well as international artist performances, the smaller Hovet and the soccer stadium Söderstadion. Further south, Skogskyrkogården (the Woodland Cemetery) is a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its architecture. To the southwest of the inner city, the borough Liljeholmen has a pleasant recreational area around lake Trekanten.
  • Ekerö, a municipality consisting of several islands to the west of Stockholm, contains two World Heritage sites: the Drottningholm palace and the Viking town of Birka.
  • Solna and Sundbyberg, bordering Stockholm to the north, are two cities with a distinct history of their own. Solna is the home of Råsunda, Stockholm's largest soccer stadium, the vast park of Hagaparken, the Karolinska Institute, a leading institution of medical research, and Solvalla, a horse-race arena.
  • Danderyd, to the northeast, contains some of Sweden's most wealthy residential areas.
  • Vaxholm (archaic spelling Waxholm), further out northeast, is the gateway to much of the Stockholm archipelago and a hub for its passenger ferries. It is a nice town with a great waterfront view and a picturesque small-scale shopping area. It also sports the Vaxholm Castle, today a coastal defense museum.
  • Lidingö is a largely suburban island to the north-east, best known for the Millesgården sculpture museum (see below), Bosön, centre for The Swedish Sports Confederation, where several famous athletes work out, and Lidingöloppet, a cross-country running event each September. Though just a few kilometres from central Stockholm, the island contains many green, quiet waterfronts and even a farm.
  • Nacka and Värmdö, to the southeast, are residential suburban municipalities that contains large recreational areas and much of the southern part of the Stockholm Archipelago.
  • Huddinge, Haninge and Tyresö to the south are residential suburban municipalities with large recreational areas, including the large Tyresta virgin forest, one of 28 national parks in Sweden, where the oldest pine trees are around 400 years old.
  • Södertälje, bordering Stockholm to the south, is a city with a distinct history where the Baltic sea meets lake Mälaren in Sweden's biggest lock. Södertälje is the home of Tom tits - Stockholm's biggest science center for children, the Torekällberget outdoor museum, and Tvetagården - a well known hostel just by lake Måsnaren.
Sundbyberg - Photo by Jordgubbe
Vaxholm Castle - Photo by Bengt Nyman
Church of Saint Raghild, Södertälje - Photo by Kalle1
Albysjön, Tyresö - Photo by Tim Honkalammi
Stockholm, City Hall - Photo by Martinim
Stockholm, The Royal Palace - Photo by Abhijeet Vardhan
Stockholm Archipelago - Photo by Udo Schröter

Tourist Attractions

Stockholm has a number of spectacular tourist attractions, ranging from the interesting architecture of the City Hall to the stunning natural beauty of the archipelago. In the Royal Palace and the royal family residence Drottningholm Palace, visitors can get in close contact with traditions of the Swedish monarchy. Among the wide range of museums, the Vasa museum with its 17th century warship and the Skansen open air museum are unique experiences. Gamla stan, the picturesque old town, is a major attraction in itself, with narrow streets and houses dating back to medieval times.

  • Stockholm's Old Town (Gamla Stan), is the beautifully preserved historical heart of Stockholm. T Gamla Stan station is on the west side of the compact quarter, which is best covered on foot. Riddarholmskyrkan is a beautifully preserved medieval church.
  • The Stockholm archipelago (skärgården) is one of the world's most spectacular. Stretching 80 kilometres east of the city centre, the archipelago comprises 24,000 islands, islets and rocks. Regular ferries are operated by Waxholmsbolaget (in Swedish only) and from April through September also by Cinderellabåtarna.

From April through September numerous services operate directly from the city centre to various destiantions, with Waxholmsbolaget departing from Strömkajen right downhill T Kungsträdgården and Cinderellabåtarna departing from Nybrokajen, 400 m from T Östermalmstorg or T Kungsträdgården. Other (and basically the only ones during winter) routes operate from suburban mainland jetties connected to the city centre by suburban rail and bus. Vaxholm, reached by bus 670 from T Tekniska högskolan, and Stavsnäs, reached by bus 433 or 434 from T Slussen are examples of this. Also note that even during the summer, when countless services operate from the city centre it is still, generally, a lot faster to travel via a suburban jetty, not to mention a lot cheaper. This is because even though the archipelago is within the metropolitan area, local transport tickets are NOT valid and tickets are paid on a distance basis. However, if you're doing multiple trips, it is also possible to buy a 5 or 30 day card (420 SEK and 750 SEK respectively), which belong to Waxholmsbolaget but are also valid on Cinderellabåtarna.

Destinations in the archipelago include (but are far from limited to) Grinda, Svartsö, Finnhamn, Möja, Sandhamn, Ingmarsö, Runmarö, Nämdö and Utö. From April through september most of these can be reached either from the city centre or via suburban jetties. The islands offer a wide variety of nature, from the lush green of the inner archipelago to the bare cliffs of the more distant outposts. Some islands have restaurants, youth hostels and country stores, while others are entirely deserted islands.

A good destination for a day trip is Sandhamn, which is reached either by taking a direct ferry from the city centre (this takes 5 h) or by taking the 433 or 434 bus from the centrally located T Slussen to Stavsnäs and from there a connecting ferry bound for Sandhamn or Hagede (from T Slussen this takes 90-95 min during summer and 110-115 min during winter). Both Waxholmsbolaget and Cinderellabåtarna serve both routes, but again, Cinderellabåtarna service is shut down during winter.

Utö makes another good trip and is accessible from the city centre (takes 3.5 h) or by taking suburban train from Stockholm central station to Västerhaninge, then bus 846 to Årsta brygga and then a connecting ferry (from Stockholm C this takes 90 min during summer and 1 h 45 min during winter). Both routes are served solely by Waxholmsbolaget.

Stockholm, Old Town, Street - Photo by Olof Senestam
Stockholm Djurgården, Vasa museum - Photo by Kalle1
Stockholm Djurgården, Skansen Open air museum - Photo by Albert Jankowski

Copyright notice: The text on this page is based on the Stockholm article on Wikitravel, written by several authors. The Stockholm photos are also the work of several authors. Please point on any image to learn more.